Nestled along the ancient Silk Road, Samarkand, Uzbekistan, is a city where time seems to stand still. Known for its mesmerizing architecture, vibrant blue-tiled mosques, and centuries-old marketplaces, Samarkand offers photographers a feast for the senses and lenses alike. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is not only one of Central Asia’s oldest cities but also a treasure trove of Islamic art and Persian-influenced designs. From the iconic Registan Square with its grand madrasas to the bustling bazars, Samarkand invites photographers to step into a world steeped in history, where every corner tells a story. In this post, we’ll dive into the must-see spots and hidden gems for capturing the essence of Samarkand, offering tips on how to photograph its stunning light, colors, and textures that make it a dream destination for any photographer.
Each year I run photography tours with Iceland Photo Tours for groups to visit Uzbekistan. The itinerary is curated to visit all the best locations and provide opportunity to create a wonderful travel portfolio. The group tour also includes a lot of the history, culture and food of this amazing country. Click the link to see the next available tour dates.
Travel To Samarkand
Reaching Samarkand is relatively easy, with options for both international and domestic travelers. It is now possible to fly direct from Dubai to Samarkand, with flights operated by flydubai. Visa restrictions have eased significantly in the last few years, allowing for many passport holders and residents of countries like the UAE to obtain visa on arrival. International visitors can also fly into Tashkent, Uzbekistan’s capital, which is well-connected to major cities worldwide. From Tashkent, Samarkand is accessible by high-speed train, with the Afrosiyob service taking around two hours and offering a comfortable and scenic route through Uzbekistan’s landscapes Be sure to book the Afrosiyab well ahed of time, as seats sell out, especially in business class. Alternatively, the slower but budget-friendly Sharq train is another option, with a journey time of about four hours. Domestic travelers can also reach Samarkand by bus or car from Tashkent, with a drive taking approximately four to five hours. Domestic flights from Tashkent to Samarkand International Airport are available, though less frequent. However you choose to travel, the journey to Samarkand is part of the adventure, setting the stage for the city’s breathtaking sights. I suggest making Samarkand part of an itinerary to explore several of the cities on the Old Silk Road - a guide workshops for Iceland Photo Tours, taking groups to amazing locatiosn and creating incredible photo opportunities. Check the website for the next Uzbekistan tour dates.
Generally, travel in Uzbekistan is quite affordable. The local currency is Uzbek Som and I suggest exchanging US Dollars (new $100 bills) at the airport - although you can also find local people to exchange money at a more favourable rate in Tashkent.
You can also get a mobile phone SIM card easily at arrivals in the airport.
Where To Stay
There are several accomodation optiuons in Samarkand. I recommend staying relatively close to Registan as it is the most visited place for photography and also quite central.
A great option is Movenpick Hotel, which has a fantastic location, excellent facilities and good dining options. Hilton Samarkand is another 5-star luxury option, although its proximity to photo locations is not as good.
Another good option is L'Argamark Hotel, it is less expensive but also in a good location.
Registon Saroy Hotel is a comfortable budget friendly option, with good wifi and close to places like Registan Square.
Getting Around Samarkand:
Depending on where you stay, you might be able to walk to several locations. However, for the most part, you will need to use transportation.
There are buses and trams, which are a cheap way to move around, howvere the taxis are also relatively cheap and make getting from location to location much faster.
There are yellow top taxis, however I find that Yandex Go app (similar to Uber) is the most reliable and cheapest option.
Photography Locations:
Registan Square:
The most well known and iconic location to visit in Samarkand is Registan Square.
The central square is surrounded by three grand madrasas — Ulugh Beg, Sher-Dor, and Tilya-Kori — each a masterpiece of intricate tile work, towering arches, and symmetrical courtyards. Photographers will find endless inspiration here, especially at sunrise and sunset, when the golden light highlights the brilliant turquoise and deep blue tiles. Whether capturing the expansive views or zooming in on the delicate details, every angle at Registan Square tells a story of the city’s rich Silk Road legacy. You will need to pay an entrance fee to go inside and gates open at 8am. For non-Uzbek citizens, the entrance is 50,000Somm or USD4.
Make sure you don't just photograph from inside the square, but take time to explore inside each madrasa. Inside Tilya-Kori (the north madrasa and the one you look directly at when standing in the squae) is a large courtyard with beautiful trees. There is also a mosque that has incredibnle golden tile work.
It is possible to explore the 2nd level of Ulugh Beg madrasa, which provides some unique compositions. If you are willing to pay a little extra (100,000Somm or USD8) you can climb to top of one of the 2 minarets of Ulugh Beg madrasa. This gives a unique birds-eye view over Registan Square.
It is possible to arrange to take photos with a model in Registan Square, however this will also incur an additional fee.
The best time to visit Registan is early morning to enjoy teh soft light without the crowds. From mid morning, a lot of tour groups arrive from Tashkent and it can become very busy. Sunset is also a wonderful time, although you will struggle to get photos without lots of people in the frame. In blue hour, the lights of the facades of the madrasas are really quite beautiful, so it is worth staying after sunset. On some nights there is also a light show around 9pm - this is nice to watch and enjoy, although for photography it is perhaps not as authentic.
Shah-i-Zinda:
A maze of blue and turquoise mausoleums dating back to the 12th century, Shah-i-Zinda is known for its unique patterns, vivid colors, and the serene atmosphere that makes every angle photogenic.
Meaning "The Living King," Shah-i-Zinda is one of Samarkand’s most sacred and visually stunning sites. Dating back to the 12th century, this necropolis is said to be the burial place of Qusam ibn Abbas, a cousin of Prophet Muhammad, who brought Islam to the region. There are a large number of historical and religious figures who are buried at Shah-i-Zinda and local people will regulalrly come to pay their respects.
This location is a pleasure for architecture photography, with several of the mausoleums being lined with intricate and beuatoful mosaics. I defnitely suggest a wide angle lens. Tripods are not permitted, so I suggest just carefully using a lower shutter speed, wide aperture and increasing the ISO a bit in the dimly lit rooms. Also be mindful that in the cetre of many mausoleums are the burial tombs, so please take care to be respectful.
Bibi Kanhum Mosque
Located very close to Registan square is a beuatiful mosque, which alspo has a fascinating, albeit morbid history. Built in the 15th century and named after Timur’s beloved wife, it was once one of the largest mosques in the Islamic world. With its grand arches, majestic domes, and intricate tilework.
It is well worth visiting after a morning at Registan and there is a great local restaurant close by, Bibi Kanhum Teahouse, which is perfect for lunch.
Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum
Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum, the burial place place of Amir Timur - Uzbekistan's founding father. It is a masterpiece of Timurid architecture in Samarkand. Known for its stunning azure dome, intricate tilework, and serene atmosphere, this mausoleum offers photographers a chance to capture both the grandeur and the intimate artistry of a site steeped in history. Every detail of Gur-e-Amir reflects the rich legacy of the Timurid Empire, making it a must-visit for anyone seeking to capture the essence of Samarkand.
This mausoleum can also be reached by walking from Registan. You will need to pay a small entrance fee of 30,000som and an additional 40,000som for photography (total approx USD5). You wont need a long time to explore Gur-e-Amir, allow maximum 1 hour and it can be done during the day as the most impressive architecture is inside.
Siyob Bazar
I try to make an effort to always visit the local markets in places that I travel - they tend to be the best way to get a feel for the people and culture of a destination.
Siyob Bazar is much smaller than Chorsu Bazar in Tashkent, but it is a nice walk around an, in my experience, the people were more friendly and happy to be photographed. The selection of food and other goods isnt as vast as Chorsu, but still provide plenty of opportunity for the street photography lovers. Uzbekistan in general has some wonderful markets - full of colourful ceramics, textured spices, fresh fruit and vibrants people. I would allow maybe 1-2 hours to explore Siyob Bazar and suggest just walking with your camera and 1 lens.
Bumazhnaya Fabrika (Paper Factory):
A lesser known place to visit for photography and a short drive from the main spots in Samarkand. This paper factory still produces paper using traditional methods and the artisans create all sorts of products such as dolls, envelopes, art work and even clothes.
It is well worth spending a coiuple of hours exploring and learning about the paper making process. It is also a nice place for some portarits of local people. I would allow 1-2 hours.
Places Close To Samarkand:
The other cities on the Old Silk Road, Tashkent, Bukhara and Khiva are all relatively easy to visit furing a trip to Uzbekistan and I would highly recommend an itinerary that includes all of them. Each is different, yet wonderful for photography. I have blog posts for each of them, detailing how to get there, where to stay and what to photograph.
If you have time and are interested in a more remote location, it is possible to visit some of the more desert areas of Uzbekistan when you travel to Samarkand. There are several yurt camps around Aydat Lake, which is roughly 3-4 hours drive from Samarkand and can be visited on the way to or from Bukhara. Here you can spend the night in traditional yurts, photograph local people, ride bactrian camels and hve some skies without light pollution for milky way photography.
Photography in Samarkand:
Uzbekistan is absoloutely an emerging detination for travel and each year there seems to be more and more people vsiitng the popular tourist sites. In terms of photography, it is definitey not as commercialised as some other popular places, so people are less accustomed to being asked to have their photo taken. Culturally it is always expected to ask someone prior to taking their photograph.
Whilst most places allow photography, there are certain locations or landmakrs where photography is not permitted and these are typically well signed.
Unfortunately drones are totally banned in Uzbekistan, so you will not be able to take aerial perspective shots.
Places To Eat:
Travel and photography tend to go nad-in-hand with food for me, so I cant provide travel advice without giving a list of suggested places to eat.
Traditional Uzbek cuisine is fantastic, especially if you love grilled meats. I strongly recommend trying:
shashlik: grilled pieces of meat or mince on a skewer.
Samsa: similar to a samosa, with puff pastry filled with various ingredients. The samsa is baked rather than fried and is fluffy, instead of crisp.
Manti: the Uzbek version of a dumpling, somewhat similar to the kinkhali in Georgia.
Plov (or pilaf): the iconic Uzbek meal! A rice dish traditionally served with slow cooked meat, spices and vegetables. Each region has a variation, so if traveling around Uzbekistan you can sample different styles.
Some restaurant recommendations in Samarkand are: Osh Markazi, Shashlik-Uz, Bibi Khanym Tea House and Karimbek.
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